Lamb Shanks in Fish Sauce: a Blend of French and Vietnamese Flavors
Updated: Jan 13
A cousin to Osso Bucco, braised Lamb Shanks are gaining popularity with American cooks because, at around $6-7/pound, they are less costly and just as delicious. These shanks are marinated in fish sauce and garlic for 4 hours (or up to overnight), and then braised in the oven for three additional hours. The result is meat that melts off the bone and in your mouth. (Fish sauce is a common Vietnamese and Thai condiment available in supermarkets and Asian groceries everywhere.)
Lamb Shanks look striking and expensive, but you can easily serve two people for around $15.
This sauce blends fish sauce, cilantro, lime, fennel, leeks, and a little chile sauce. Its flavors are a blend of Vietnamese and French flavors.
The inspiration for this dish comes from Bon Appetit's page on Lamb Shanks with Fish Sauce. It is a very good recipe but has some difficult-to-find or expensive ingredients. Because fennel is so hard to find and is often so expensive, I have substituted leeks for texture and fennel seeds for flavor. Don't overdo the fennel seeds--this is a subtle flavor. Having lime leaves is wonderful, but lime zest works just as well in this context. If you don't have Thai chiles or are afraid of the heat level, do not fret. Use chile paste, sambal oelek, Siracha, or a few slices of Jalapeno or your favorite chile. You can even substitute plain old crushed red pepper flakes. Whatever you like and have on hand. I prefer to use a little Thai chile paste today.
Lamb Shanks
Lamb shanks are available everywhere today. Amazon Fresh had them this week for $5.99/pound. Wild Fork Foods sells lamb shanks every day for around
$6.50/pound. Aldi often sells them for a similar price. If you search online, you will see many retailers selling them for much more. But if you buy wisely, you should be able to pay around $5 per person for your lamb shanks.
Cilantro Stems?
Vietnamese and Thai cooks use the stem of cilantro, although American cooks often use the leaves and throw the stem away. Trust me on this one. Use the stems in the braising pot and save the leaves for later in the process.
Other Fresh Herbs
If you have traditional Asian herbs such as Thai basil, you can include them at the end when you add the chopped cilantro. This is unnecessary, but if you have them and like them, it can make the dish more aromatic and wonderful.
Bay leaves can be fresh or dried. During times of the year when I cook a lot, I buy a flat of fresh bay leaves. Otherwise, I use dried. Either is fine in the dish.
Limes Leaves or Zest
The original recipe calls for Makrut or Kaffir lime leaves, which are a common ingredient in Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. I admit to hoarding them, buying them cheap when I can find them, and freezing or drying them for later use. But when I don't have them, I substitute lime zest, which works very well. Using the lime leaves is much easier and (believe it or not) cheaper when I can find a bag cheaply at my Asian grocery. But the lime zest gives you a similar result with a little more work and expense. If you have an Asian grocery nearby, don't be afraid to buy lime leaves, but don't buy them just for this recipe.
Leeks and Fennel Seeds
I substituted leeks and fennel seeds for the fennel bulbs called for in the original recipe. If you cannot find leeks, just omit them and use the fennel seeds. The leeks are more for texture and visual interest, and the fennel seeds provide flavor. You can substitute the bulb part of bok choy or celery for the leeks. I like some texture in the sauce, and you should use what is available.
What is Fish Sauce?
Fish sauce is a condiment made with fermented anchovies or other fish. Sounds yummy, right? But it adds a depth of flavor to dishes that is indescribable. In most savory dishes from Vietnam or Thai cuisine, you will see fish sauce paired with a sweet ingredient, such as palm sugar. That is because fish sauce has a magical
ability to balance savory and sweet flavors. It can also balance sweetness and acidity. When meat is braised in wine, it can be difficult to balance the sweetness with the acid (and the sweetness of vegetables in the pot). But with fish sauce, it is much easier.
When I make this dish, I will start a stockpot of chicken stock (I have a running bag of chicken scraps in a Ziploc bag in my freezer) when I put the lamb shanks in the fish sauce. By the time the stock is finished, the lamb shanks have usually marinated long enough, and I can start the recipe.
Chicken Stock: Use Low-Sodium or Unsalted
You will need a fair amount of chicken stock to complete this dish. Of course, it is best if you make the chicken stock yourself. But you can get a great result with canned chicken stock or brother from the grocery store. With one proviso: whether you make or buy the stock, ensure it is low sodium. The fish sauce in this dish has a lot of salt; if you use a chile paste with salt, your dish will get even better. Be very careful with salt in this dish--it is easy to oversalt. If you only have salted chicken stock, reduce the fish sauce in the braising liquid by 1-2 Tablespoons (so you use only 2-3 Tablespoons instead of 4).
Browning the Lamb Shanks
When the lamb shanks have marinated long enough, remove them from the bag and throw the marinade away. Dry the shanks completely with paper towels. Heat
oil in a Dutch oven and brown the lamb shanks on all sides. Don't skip or skimp on this step. Take the time to brown your lamb shanks properly, and the flavor of your dish will improve drastically. Remove your lamb shanks to a plate and set aside.
Preparing the Braising Liquid
Brown the green onions, cilantro stems, and garlic until caramelized. Add chile (or
chile paste), fish sauce, lime leaves or zest, bay leaf, stock, and fish sauce. Put the lamb shanks back in the pot, cover them with foil, and place them in the oven. The result will be meat that is fall-off-the-bone tender and delicious.
When your shanks are done, remove them from the pot and strain the liquid. Retain the carrots and leeks. Heat the straining liquid until it thickens. It time to serve your masterpiece!
Serving Lamb Shanks with Fish Sauce
These lamb shanks are delicious over risotto, but my favorite way to serve them is over lime-infused rice with cilantro. The recipe for this rice is on a note below at the
end of the recipe card. Smart cooks use a rice cooker or an Instant Pot to make their rice. I haven't made rice (other than risotto) in anything but an Instant Pot for the better part of a decade because it is better. Serve these lamb shanks with this rice and a lime wedge. Arrange the leeks and carrots over the rice and lamb shanks and serve with a liberal amount of sauce. Perfect!
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